CUT – how the diamond gets its shape

There are a number of different ways to cut a diamond, and we offer most of them. Learn more about the benefits of the different cuts and which one you should go for, to get the most bling for the buck.
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  2. CUT – how the diamond gets its shape

When a raw diamond is found, it is gray and dull and far from as beautiful as we are used to. To get the coveted clear and sparkling look, you must first process the diamond. Experienced gem cutters, cuts the facets in the diamond, according to advanced mathematical formulas. A facet is a plane surface, and how many facets a diamond has, affects how much light it reflects.

A diamond has many qualities that they are valued for, such as brightness, brilliance, and clarity. How you choose to cut the diamond, depends on which quality you want to emphasize. The different cuts are also differently coveted, here we will go through the most common once.

Brilliant cut

The most common cut for diamonds used in jewellery, is the brilliant cut. A brilliant-cut diamond is round, with 57–58 facets, ending up in a sharp point on the underside. When most people think of a diamond, it is usually a brilliant cut diamond they see in front of them.

Round diamonds are usually slightly more expensive per carat than other cuts. The reason is both the great demand, as well as the fact that much of the rough diamond is cut off without being able to be used, when the round shape is created.

Just under 40% of the rough diamond remains after the cut. But if you want a diamond that sparkles like nothing else, it is still a brilliant-cut diamond that you should invest in. No other cut gives the diamond so many facets, and reflects so much light. There is simply a good reason why it is the most popular shape.

Princess cut

The princess cut is the second most popular cut, after the brilliant cut. With its 50–58 facets and square shape, it makes a real statement, whether it is worn on the finger, in the ears or around your neck.

Up to 80% of the raw diamond remains when cutting a princess cut diamond. This means that princess cut diamonds often are lower in price, than brilliant-cut diamonds. The characteristic pointed corners also give the impression of a bigger a diamond than it actually is. So, if you are looking for a larger diamond at a good price, which also really stands out, a princess cut diamond can be something for you.

Baguette cut

A baguette cut diamond easily brings the decadent 20s and Art Deco inspired design to mind. With its slightly narrower, elongated proportions and crown consisting of a larger facet, it creates an elegant and sophisticated expression.

Baguette-shaped diamonds also do very well even in smaller sizes and are therefore popular as side stones to a larger stone, or in a channel-bound eternity ring. There are many ways to shape a baguette-cut diamond, but the most popular shape has parallel facets, as in the picture below. It is also the type of baguette cut diamond that we offer at Efva Attling Stockholm.

Emerald cut

An emerald-cut gemstone is very similar to a baguette cut, except that the corners of the emerald-cut one is beveled instead of sharp. The sharp corners of the baguette cut are very sensitive and are therefore most suitable for the hard diamond. If you are looking for a similar cut, but for another gemstone than a diamond, the emerald cut is the one to go for.

At Efva Attling Stockholm, you can find emerald-cut colour stones in our exclusive rings Bend Over and Magic Star, among others.

The quality of the cut

In addition to the type of cut, the quality of the cut also affects the final price of the diamond. Among other things, the proportions between the different parts of the stone must not deviate too much. The quality of the cut affects how the light is refracted in the stone. An excellent cut can make a diamond of poorer quality appear clearer, while a poorer cut can make a stone of better quality appear darker.

The proportions of the diamond control how the light is refracted inside the stone. The goal is to get as much light as possible to be reflected, since this is what creates the sparkling effect. With a perfect cut, the light is also reflected back to the viewer again instead of passing through the stone. The diamond's so-called “fire” is also affected by how well the diamond is cut. “Fire” means that white light enters the diamond and is reflected out as light in different colours. How much “fire” you want the diamond to have, can also be affected by the shape of the cut.

GIA (the Gemological Institute of America) has set the standard for diamond grading, and grades the quality of the cut in the following way:

  • Excellent: A perfectly cut diamond that reflects as much light as possible.
  • Very good: Very good cut, which does not differ much from an excellent cut.
  • Good: This cut reflects most of the light, but some light escapes and the diamond is perceived as darker than it actually is.
  • Fair (average): There is a risk that a lot of light disappears and that the diamond is perceived as much darker than it really is.
  • Poor (less good): The stone is too deep, high, or narrow so that the light disappears out the bottom and on the sides.

At Efva Attling Stockholm, we mainly use diamonds certified with Excellent, as well as some hand-picked diamonds with the Very Good certification.

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